Given the grim weather forecast, I expected to wake to rain, but although the heavy grey clouds were broiling ominously, it mercifully stayed dry, allowing me to keep everything dry. I set off under a leaden sky, along mercifully quiet country roads, passing through hamlets consisting of just a few white-washed stone-walled cottages straggling the…

The wind had strengthened during the night, but luckily, my tent was sheltered by scrub and the remains of the old tin mine buildings. I packed away early and set off just before a band of heavy rain swept across the landscape, water running down the road in rivulets. I was soon soaked, but at…