I woke at 6 am from the best sleep I’d had on the Camino so far – what a difference a comfy bed and a little more privacy make!

After a swift breakfast of croissants and an iced coffee purchased from the supermarket last night, we set off once again into the darkness of the early morning. The buildings and streets of Bentanzos were gilded gold and silver from the streetlights reflecting off wet surfaces. Luckily the last remaining showers had exhausted themselves during the night and the forecast was good.

As usual, we faced a steep climb out of the town, pausing for breath at what I imagined would be a spectacular viewpoint if it was daylight. Our only view was the twin dancing circles of light from our head torches as we walked, illuminating the few inches of tarmac just ahead.

As the night faded and the dawn broke we realised it was going to be a nice day. The sun rose as we plodded through hamlets and past farms, revealing rolling hills and livestock in the fields. A thin layer of mist clung stubbornly at ground level, giving the scene an autumnal feel.

We weren’t expecting any refreshment opportunities for some time, but after a steep climb we stumbled on a café in Meangos, so gratefully called in for breakfast.

As we left, the day warmed up and we were soon sweating as we tackled yet more ascent through a long stretch of pretty, leafy woodland. It was good to take a break, sitting among the trees and listening to nature’s sweet sounds.

Despite my tranquil surroundings, I felt a nagging sense of unease due to a lack of accommodation options at our destination for today, Hospital de Bruma. There are no hotels, just a small collection of houses with two albergues, a private one and a municipal one. We hadn’t booked a bed in the private albergue but optimistically thought we would be fine given the time of year.

I resolved to stop worrying and to be present, and to trust that the Camino would provide.

The Camino Inglés leaves the forest on a track leading steadily downhill to a park and campsite at Beche. Several pilgrims stopped at the café here, but we didn’t feel in need of another break just yet so we snatched a few moments of rest perched on some handily placed boulders, snacking on wafers and chocolate.

After a few more kilometres of road walking, we reached the small church at As Travesas, where I spotted a café opposite that is the stuff of legend on the Camino.

Casa Avelina.

We felt compelled to call in for a drink as we had heard so much about the amazing hospitality on offer here from Carmen and Avelina, granddaughters of the original Avelina.

We were not disappointed. We were given footstools to raise our weary feet, a whole pack of biscuits was offered up with our large coffees and Carmen eagerly grabbed us for photos.

It was a wrench to leave, but we still had a few kilometres to walk to Hospital de Bruma, along a busy road before turning left on a muddy track through a small wood. It was a relief to reach the houses of Hospital de Bruma, although our first sign that something was amiss was the sight of a small group of people huddled over phones outside the public albergue.

As we suspected, it was full. No room at the inn. We were both very aware that we now faced trying to find accommodation when neither of us spoke Spanish and we weren’t sure what facilities were nearby, if anything.

Trying not to panic, we walked towards the people stood outside.

In the group was a Spanish girl who had kindly helped us on our first night. She said “The private Albergue is full too. We’re staying in a town about 6 kilometres away. We are waiting for our taxi, I can ring them and ask if they have a taxi available for you?”

Unfortunately they didn’t, but at that moment a group of English guys walked past, Richard and Kent with them. They invited us to join them for a drink in the pub just down the road – sorting ourselves out over a pint greatly appealed, so we gratefully accepted.

Drinks in hand, one of the guys told us “We’re staying in a hotel called Hotel Canaima. It’s only 1.3 kilometres off route so it’s not far to walk, and we can rejoin the route easily tomorrow morning”.

Fumbling with the app I was using for the Camino, I managed to book us the last room at Hotel Canaima. Sorted!

After a couple of drinks, we set off to check into the hotel, which was comfortable and clean. I luxuriated in a long, hot shower before meeting Richard and Kent for dinner in the hotel restaurant. Ordering was done through an app accessed by a QR code, and much to my dismay I managed to mess it up, but the others were very patient with me.

The Galicia region of Spain isn’t really geared up for vegetarians, so it was double egg and chips again for me, but my weary body was grateful for what it could get.

I lay in bed for a while listening to the traffic noise from the busy road outside before falling into a restless sleep.