We awoke to darkness and the depressing sound of heavy rain drumming against the window. Today was a shorter day to Santiago, but walking through rain again would be a miserable experience, and not how we had imagined completing our pilgrimage.
We hung around in the lounge for a while, trying to delay our departure, but eventually decided we couldn’t put it off any longer. It was still raining when we closed the Albergue door behind us and stepped into the street. Rachel spotted the bright lights of an open café spilling out onto the pavement opposite and we decided that a spot of breakfast wouldn’t hurt. This turned out to be a good move, as the rain had stopped by the time we finished, and we emerged into welcome daylight.
We left Sigueiro behind and followed a series of quiet roads through rural hamlets and fields where people busily worked the land. We both felt as though we had stepped a couple of decades back in time; it was a world away from modern farming in England, with its huge combine harvesters. It felt a much simpler way of life, much less cluttered.
We passed several Hórreos, rectangular granaries that are a key feature of the Galician region, and watched the sun rise over the woods beyond the motorway.
Pausing for a photo with a couple of fancily dressed scarecrows, we followed the Camino waymarkers back into the woods for a final time, climbing steeply to the highest point of the day. We had passed the 10k marker, which meant we only had around 6 miles left to walk. This made me feel sad as I felt I wasn’t ready for the Camino to end. Not just yet.
We had been looking forward to the Enchanted Forest, complete with a picture of a witch on her broomstick at the entrance. Apparently, pilgrims have reported feeling uneasy walking through the forest, but Rachel and I agreed it felt very tranquil. I spent a few minutes attempting to photograph a couple of butterflies busily engaging in a mating dance. This proved to be difficult as they almost seemed to flit in and out of existence as we observed them.
Leaving the forest we faced the last climb of the day before dropping down into a sprawling industrial area on the edge of Santiago de Compostela. It felt like a complete contrast to the quiet roads, extensive views and forests we had become accustomed to.
We stopped for our last lunch before walking into the city suburbs. Passing a large cemetery, we walked through the gates to admire the magnificent family tombs. Using the power of Google translate, we were able to have a lovely conversation with a Spanish couple, who were very interested in what we were doing. It was a privilege to be able to share this moment with them.
The Camino Inglés takes pilgrims through the outskirts of Santiago. As we walked, the clack-clack from the hiking poles of other pilgrims sounded in our ears as we eagerly scanned the rooftops for the first sight of the Cathedral towers.
Nothing yet. We descended steeply, finally catching a glimpse of the tips of the towers thrusting through the skyline. It suddenly felt very real. Our journey was nearly over.
The Camino skirts a road island thick with foliage with a statue of St James almost hidden in the centre, before heading into the old part of the city. It was here that we felt we were truly walking in the footsteps of pilgrims that had gone before us, and I marvelled at the lovely ancient buildings that they had surely passed.
Finally it was time to walk down the stone steps, past a piper playing an evocative tune on his bagpipes, and under an arch to reveal the grandeur of the Obradoiro Square, the sun glinting off the magnificent façade of the cathedral.
We were here. We had completed the Camino Inglés.
We both needed a moment of reflection, so we took off our rucksacks and sat under the arches in the square, thinking about the journey we had just finished.
I realised I had made the error of thinking of the Camino as just another long-distance walk to be completed, conquered, ticked off the list. It isn’t.
The Camino is an experience, a journey. There’s a special kind of camaraderie shared along the route, from a hearty ‘Buen Camino’ to fellow pilgrims only encountered once, to friendships forged on the trail and help given in times of need.
After my Camino I feel lighter, less burdened, and although I have not yet dropped all of my burdens, it has inspired me to start the process. I believe that arriving in the splendid square and turning eager heads to see the Cathedral de Santiago for the first time is a beginning, not an ending – for can a Camino ever truly be finished?
I know I will be back on the trail someday.
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